
Thursday, March 8, 2012
The Squeeze Inn Cheeseburger

Wednesday, March 2, 2011
Ad Hoc's Chicken Soup with Dumplings

Chicken Soup with Dumplings
Makes: 6-10 servings (about 8 cups)
WSJ & Thomas Keller
1 tablespoon (1/2 ounce) unsalted butter
1 cup thinly sliced carrots
1 cup coarsely chopped celery
1 cup coarsely chopped onion
1 cup coarsely chopped leek
Kosher salt
Dumplings:
1/2 cup water
4 tablespoons (2 ounces) unsalted butter
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
2/3 cup all-purpose fl our
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 large eggs
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon minced chives
4 quarts Chicken Stock (page 339)
5 stalks celery
3 large carrots
1 teaspoon honey
1 bay leaf
2 thyme sprigs
1 large garlic clove, crushed, skin left on
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup (about 4 ounces) Roux (page 334)
2 cups cooked shredded chicken (dark or white meat)
1/4 cup minced chives
1 tablespoon champagne vinegar
Flat-leaf parsley leaves
Melt the butter in an 8- to 10-quart stockpot over medium heat. Add the carrots, celery, onions, and leeks, season with salt, and cover with a parchment lid. Reduce the heat to low and cook very slowly, stirring occasionally, 30 to 35 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Remove and discard the parchment lid.
Make the dumplings: Fill a wide deep pot with salted water and bring to a simmer. Set up a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.
Combine the water, butter, and 1 teaspoon of the salt in a medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium, add the fl our all at once, and stir rapidly with a stiff heatproof or wooden spoon until the dough pulls away from the sides of the pan and the bottom of the pan is clean. The dough should be glossy and smooth but still moist; enough moisture must evaporate from the dough to allow it to absorb more fat when the eggs are added. Continue to stir for 4 to 5 minutes, adjusting the heat as necessary to prevent the dough from coloring; a thin coating of dough will form on the bottom and sides of the pan. When enough moisture has evaporated, steam will rise from the dough and the nutty aroma of cooked flour will be noticeable.
Immediately transfer the dough to the mixer bowl. Add the mustard and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and mix for a few seconds to incorporate the ingredients and release some of the heat. With the mixer on the lowest speed, add the eggs one at a time, beating until the first egg is completely incorporated before adding the second and incorporating it. Then add the chives and incorporate. Remove the bowl from the mixer.
Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Shape the dumplings using two soup spoons to make a quenelle shape (see note), dropping them into the simmering water. Cook the dumplings in batches of about 6 to avoid crowding the pot and allow them to cook evenly. Once the dumplings rise to the surface, it will take about 5 minutes for them to cook; remove one and break it open to make sure it is cooked. With a slotted spoon, transfer the dumplings to the baking sheet, and cook the remaining dumplings. (You will have about 18 dumplings.)
Once the dumplings have cooled, trim any uneven edges with scissors.
Finish the soup: Add the chicken stock to the vegetables and bring to a simmer. Simmer for 30 minutes, then strain the soup base into another pot and discard the vegetables.
Peel the celery stalks with a peeler. Cut each stalk crosswise on the diagonal into thin slices about 11/2 inches long. As you get to the wider lower part of the stalk, adjust the angle of your knife to keep the pieces relatively the same size. You need about 1 1/2 cups celery for this recipe (reserve any extra for another use). Cook the celery in a large pot of boiling salted water (see page 147) until just tender. Drain, cool in an ice bath, and drain again.
Cut the carrots lengthwise into quarters and then crosswise into bite-sized pieces. As each carrot widens, adjust the size of the cut to keep the pieces bite sized. You need about 1 1/2 cups carrots for this recipe (reserve any extra for another use).
Put the carrots in a saucepan, add the honey, bay leaf, thyme, garlic, and a pinch of salt and pepper, and cover with cold water. Bring to a simmer and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the carrots are tender but slightly resistant to the tooth. Drain and transfer to paper towels.
Bring the soup base to a simmer and whisk in the roux a little at a time until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon; you may not use all the roux. Simmer for 30 minutes, skimming often—this is necessary to remove all impurities from the roux. (The soup will continue to thicken as it simmers.)
Add the dumplings, chicken, carrots, celery, and chives to the soup and heat through. Season with the vinegar and salt and pepper to taste.
Transfer to a large serving bowl and sprinkle with parsley leaves.
Note: To form a three-sided quenelle using two soupspoons, start by using one spoon to scoop up a portion of dough that is slightly smaller than the bowl of the spoon. Hold the second spoon in your other hand, place the side of the spoon against the far side of the dough, and scoop it onto the second spoon, forming one smooth long side. Continue transferring the dough between the spoons until you have the desired oval football shape. (With practice, this should take no more than three transfers, but it may require more when you are first getting started.) Before you begin, set up a container of hot water in which to regularly dip the spoons—this will make it easier to form the quenelles.

Ad Hoc's Chicken Soup with Dumplings
Tuesday, November 24, 2009
Test Kitchen: Rutherford Grill's Cornbread
A couple things:
1) Don't even think about making this with out the skillet
2) Buy 2 ears of corn, grill them until charred brown and cut off the cob
- 2 ears of corn
- 1/2 stick (1/4 cup) cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces
- 1/4 cup vegetable oil
- 1 1/2 jalapenos, fine dice with some seeds
- 1 1/4 cups cornmeal (preferably stone-ground; not coarse)
- 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- 1 teaspoon baking soda
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 1 1/2 cups well-shaken buttermilk
- 2 large eggs
- 1 teaspoon of bacon lard (optional)
- 2 tablespoons honey
- Special equipment: a 9 1/2- to 10-inch well-seasoned cast-iron skillet
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 450°F. Add butter, lard and oil to skillet and heat in oven until melted, about 5 minutes, then carefully pour into a medium bowl.
Whisk together cornmeal, flour, sugar, jalapeno, baking soda, and salt in a large bowl.
Whisk buttermilk and eggs into melted butter, then stir into cornmeal mixture until just combined. Pour into hot skillet and bake until a wooden pick or skewer inserted in center comes out clean, 15 to 20 minutes. Cool in skillet on a rack 5 minutes.

Test Kitchen: Rutherford Grill's Cornbread
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
Breast Cancer Awareness Event at Press Club, October 29th

Hope to see you all there!

Breast Cancer Awareness Event at Press Club, October 29th
Monday, September 21, 2009
Yountville Restaurant Crawl- Part 1

Before we drove into Yountville, we made a drink stop at Auberge de Soleil. I get tons and tons of emails from friends and colleagues asking for tips when they visit Napa and a drink at this place always makes the list. Auberge is a fantastic resort nestled up in the hills outside of Yountville with amazing views and great people watching. If you go in the late afternoon, you can get a table with little to no wait and enjoy a crisp glass of wine before heading to an early dinner. We both ordered a 2007 Foxen Chenin Blanc and soaked in the view before heading on our way.

Yountville Restaurant Crawl- Part 1
Yountville Restaurant Crawl- Part 2
I remember the first time I had this fresh mozzarella cheese that's injected with cream. It was at my Uncle's restaurant in Chicago and I looked at him and said "what is this and where can I buy it?" So, to me, Carrie's reaction was much like mine. Folks in Chicago don't have much access to burrata because of its short shelf life but if you dig you can find it. Chicago, check out Frankie's Fifth Floor for a taste! We paired the cheese with a Horse & Plow Pinot Gris from Anderson Valley.
For those of you wondering, we left our car in the parking lot and walked from spot to spot. Never drink and drive in Napa!

Yountville Restaurant Crawl- Part 2
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
Lamborn Family Vineyards


This weekend, I redeemed the auction item I won at the Taste of Howell Mountain, a day at Lamborn Family Vineyards. Last summer, I visited the tasting room at Napa Wine Company, which is a custom crush facility in Napa Valley, and immediately feel in love with their 2004 Zinfandel. Lamborn grows all of their fruit on Howell Moutain and uses Napa Wine Company to crush, barrel and bottle their wines. They make a little under 2,000 cases a year and their winemaker is Heidi Barrett.
I didn't know what to expect but I knew the day would be filled with good wine and laughter so I was so excited to bring some friends on the journey with me. We drove up to the house and were warmly greeted by Mike and Terry Lamborn in front of their beautiful home and were immediately whisked away on a vineyard tour. Mike and Terry were incredible hosts, very knowledgeable and everyone learned a lot on the tour.
Next, they took us in their home and we did a vertical Zinfandel tasting starting with the '99 and going up to the 2006. It was fascinating to try the different vintages and understand how the fruit differed vintage to vintage and how the wines age. If you haven't had Lamborn wines, I would highly suggest that you run not walk to your computer and order some online or go to Napa Wine Company. Since case production is low, you won't find it in stores. Oh yeah, their Cabernet is amazing, too.
I love wine but days like these really make me love the wine business. Folks like Terry and Mike are a great example of what the family wine business should be and should stand for. Their son is slated to take over once they retire and both of them tend to the vines themselves except at crush. They have a lovely home, a wonderful relationship and like to have friends over for bocce ball and drinks. They are just wonderful people.
We had such a great time at Lamborn and thank Mike and Terry for their hospitality. If you are coming to Napa Valley, try to visit them for a tasting and tell them I sent you. I promised them I would be their biggest fan and ambassador for life!

Lamborn Family Vineyards
Friday, August 21, 2009
Bacon and Pimento Cheese Burgers

I'm going to add about a 1/4 cup of BBQ sauce to the meat along with seasoning and worcestershire sauce. The hint of BBQ flavor should go great with the smokiness of the bacon and the heat from the jalapenos.
Bacon and Pimento Cheese Burgers
Serves 4
2 lbs of ground beef (80/20)
8 slices of bacon
1 cup of grated cheddar cheese
1/4 c pimento
1/8 chopped jalapenos
1/4 cup of mayo
Salt and pepper to taste
Fry bacon until done and set aside.
Mix cheese, pimentos, jalapenos and mayo in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper to liking. Set aside.
Season meat and form into patties (add BBQ and worcestershire sauce to the meat if you would like). Turn grill to medium heat. Add burger patties to grill and cook 5 minutes per side. Add cheese and bacon on top of each patty and close cover for 1 more minute until melted. Serve on toasted bun with lettuce, red onion and sliced tomatoes.

Bacon and Pimento Cheese Burgers
Friday, June 19, 2009
Taste of Howell Mountain, June 20

2:30 – 5 pm
Wine Tasting - 30 Wineries Pouring
Silent Auction & Fabulous Food
•••
5 pm - 7:30 pm
Live Auction
Wine Collections, Large Format Bottles
& Wine Lifestyle Events
Delicious Dessert
Auctioneer – Greg Quiroga
•••
All auction proceeds benefit the
Howell Mountain Elementary School.
$95 per person
Tickets available at the door
or by calling 707-252-6229

Taste of Howell Mountain, June 20
Thursday, May 14, 2009
Taste of Howell Mountain, June 20

See you at the event!!!

Taste of Howell Mountain, June 20
Monday, August 25, 2008
Pride Mountain Vineyards


Pride is a 235-acre estate divided by the Sonoma and Napa county lines. It has gorgeous caves (see room below for private events), incredible views, knowledgeable and passionate employees and tasty, tasty wines.

Pride's consulting winemaker, Bob Foley, is known for his unique wine making style. He began his career at Heitz, moved on to Markham and has devoted the rest of his career since to Pride and wine education within the industry.


Pride Mountain Vineyards
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
Roasted Harrisa Chicken


I've found that when you approach an exciting market filled with specialty stores that it is best to leave it to the pros. Ask them what they like. What they suggest. And why. To own a store like this or to even work in one requires passion. These people are often great cooks. They love to share their recipes and will talk for hours if you let them. Sometimes, these folks are better than any cooking show or cookbook you can get your hands on. I love that.
Shuli was no exception. He insisted that I take some free Herbs de Provence Sea Salt to test against my own since I told him 'I already have that'. I can tell you for a fact that his is much better. I also made it home with a Zhug Dipping Sauce that is a spice mix that I will add some olive oil to and serve with a baguette for snack-time around the house. A teaspoon will do just fine with a 1/4 cup of olive oil. It's spicy but Drew and I love our spice. However, his go-to, the one I HAD to get, was his Harrisa Spice Mix.
Harrisa is a hot blend that can accompany a variety of foods and adds an unmistakable Middle Eastern flavor. It's very common in North African cuisine and can be used in couscous, soups, salads, veggies and kabobs. But I'll use this mostly in my marinades for lamb, beef or chicken just as he suggested as well. The ingredients include chili California, chili New Mexico, coriander, garlic, cumin, cayenne and citric acid. Oh yeah, it can be made into a paste by smashing up some garlic and adding a dash of olive oil in a mortar and pestle.
Before I packed up my spices to move on to the wine bar, Shuli gave me this wonderful recipe for my Harrisa Spice Blend:
Roasted Harrisa Chicken
2 lbs chicken leg quarters
4 cloves of garlic, crushed
3 tablespoons Harrisa
5 tablespoons of olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
In a small bowl or mortar and pestle crush garlic and add Harrisa and olive oil. Mix it into a paste. Season chicken with S&P on both sides. Generously rub chicken with paste until covered.
Heat oven to 400 degrees and roast in pan for an hour. Serve immediately.

Roasted Harrisa Chicken
Monday, August 18, 2008
Mexican Torta

It's good to be back in the land of good Mexican food. Napa Valley is over 65% Hispanic and there are great local markets, such as La Luna and Azteca Market, that don't mess around. Both usually have lines around the block during lunch so go during off hours. La Luna is a store I have been going to since I was a kid. I used to ride with my friend from her nearby vineyard (now a HWY 29 hot spot by the name of Peju Province) on their 3-wheeler to grab lunch and go to their nearby stable and ride horses in the afternoon. They sell everything from hot peppers to wedding dresses. It's a town gem.
Regardless of my history with tasty Mexican cuisine, it's hard to go a long day of hard work in the Valley without filling up on a torta. Now, these are no joke. Beginners should split one. They don't mess around and Mexican food is never good left over. You MUST eat on-site. Take-out is for rookies and drunks.
If you cannot find this sandwich locally at a Mexican or Cuban joint than try to make it at home after a day of some hard labor or if you are just in the mood. Tortas are a pretty generic term so basically all you you need is to pick a protein (beef, pork, shrimp, fish...) and choose from refried beans, scrambled eggs, milanesa, chipotle, avocado, sour cream, lettuce, jalapeño, tomato, and cheese. The bread is key so expect a nice soft white roll with a house sauce (red or green). Also, if I were you, I'd add spice wherever possible.
Enjoy your next (or first) Mexican sandwich.

Mexican Torta
Sunday, August 17, 2008
Chateau Montelena

Chateau Montelena
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
Chimney Rock and Regusci
It was getting late but Regusci has been on my list to check off. This family has owned property in the valley since the 30's. They make about 5,000 cases a year with a hilarious Welch man in the tasting room to boot. The grounds are gorgeous so pack a lunch for a picnic.
Stay tuned for Thursday's jam-packed day in the Stags Leap District...

Chimney Rock and Regusci
Monday, August 11, 2008
Flora Srings
Now, I'm going on the record to say that I have a special place in my heart for Flora Springs. Not only did my best friend get married at their beautiful property, she married into one of the nicest families on the planet. The Garveys represent all that is good in this valley and are a genuine class act. This is a family-run vineyard named after Sean's grandmother, Flora, and for the natural water source they are blessed with on their property.

Flora Srings
Saturday, August 2, 2008
The Perfect Day in Napa Valley


I knew that I had to eventually get to Rombauer since almost everyone that goes to Duckhorn either goes there next or comes from there. Rombauer is known for its Chardonnay. But we enjoyed their Merlot which was a lot lighter that the one I am used to at Duckhorn. We also enjoyed the Zinfandel but we went for the '04 Merlot in the end. Good thing to mention is that they allow picnicking. So grab a snack or sandwich, buy a bottle and enjoy yourself.



The Perfect Day in Napa Valley
Saturday, July 26, 2008
Go Fish

I finally went to the last of 3 restaurants in the valley owned by Cindy Pawlcyn. And I don't even like fish. BUT they do love dogs and that was a plus so we brought our 12 year old 'puppy' for a dinner on the patio.
Go Fish. Catchy name, huh? Especially coming from someone that has a father more dedicated to fishing than anything else. I got a fly rod for my college graduation. 'nuff said.
Now, I'm a sucker which means I'm that guy feeding my dog under the table so she begs and it's my fault and blah, blah, blah. Hey, she's 12. She can do anything she wants in my opinion so party on. Problem is that fish and dogs don't go together so she basically napped while we dined on the patio. 3 courses to be exact.
The clams were awesome but they were also a meal. Once you start dipping in the broth you are in trouble. The big eye tuna and prawns that followed took me over the edge. Maybe next time I'll stick to some kumamoto oysters and the clams and call it a day.
Best part? Recognized our waiter from Cindy's other restaurant that works there once a week. Hi Jeremy! Go figure. Felt just like home...

Go Fish
Another Day of Wine Tasting

That's right. Another day of wine tasting. This time I flew by the seat of my pants and picked places at random. Well, not totally at random. I have a looooong list of wineries to hit up so these were 4 I wanted to knock off. First up Sequoia Grove.
Named after the gorgeous trees surrounding the tasting room, Sequoia Grove is a winery located just off of highway 29. They're known for their cabs and I used to buy them often for corporate dinners and parties when I lived in New York City. They offer a white or red wine flight and I went for the red (big surprise). I was impressed at the syrah they made and only sold retail. It was tasty but I came for the cab and left with a 2004 Rutherford Bench Reserve cab.
One last thing: their staff knew their stuff and they were as nice as could be. I would certainly recommend this spot if you come into town.
Next stop was Heitz.
This is another winery that I knew for it's Cabernet but they surprised me too. I am trying really hard to build a comprehensive cellar. Not one just filled with cabs. And it's been tough because I love cabs. Anyway, I really went outside of my comfort zone and left this winery, that is known for cabs, and managed to take a port and their Chardonnay. Told you it was outside of my comfort zone. But their port wasn't too sweet and their chardonnay wasn't buttery and that's why I went for it. The nice man that shared the wines with me told me to serve the port with stinky cheese. I told him that would not be a problem...
By the way, Heitz has a free tasting which is rare around Napa Valley.
Ok, now for Frank Family Vineyards. This place has crazy buzz. I mean EVERYONE is talking about them so I had to check it out. Frank Family was started by Rich Frank, an old long-time Disney executive. He became interested in wines and met Koerner Rombauer who taught him the business. Rambauer is another one on the list but haven't made it there yet. He's done well by establishing a brand and a very well known Chardonnay.

Another Day of Wine Tasting
Mustards Grill

Here I ago again tooting Cindy Pawlcyn's horn but I love this woman and she is our local star. This was her first restaurant after working at many that were not her own in Minnesota, Chicago and California. It also got rave reviews from the get-go. I have to say that there is no surprise there.
I sat at the bar on my day-off where a spunky local named Moe was my bartender and I ordered the Hunan Grilled Chicken with ginger-soy noodles, asian slaw and toasted sesame seeds for lunch. They are known for their famous Mongolian Pork Chop but that sounded more like dinner than lunch so I'll have to go back.
This place was packed about 5 minutes after the door opened at 11:30am. They have certainly built a great reputation and there were many, many regulars. No wonder. Cindy makes the best food in town.

Mustards Grill